Jewelry Making Tip :: Front and Back

After stacking beads on a headpin for creating a pair of earrings, we most often make a wrapped loop in order to attach the drops to earwires. I make 2 types of wrapped loops: neat and messy. But that's a topic for another post. This post is about the neat type of wrapped loop. Chances are, you have a favorite method of creating said wrapped loop. Take a close look at the last pair of earrings you made. You will notice that they do not look the same when viewed from the front as they do when viewed from the back.

This first photo shows one drop facing one way and the other drop facing the other way. Can you see the difference in the wrap? This may seem like a minor point, but in a simple pair of earrings, if each one is not suspended from the earwire in the same direction, it can really stick out like a sore thumb.



I won't try to tell you which way is right and which way is wrong, I only suggest that you assemble both earrings the same way. I always hang my drops as seen below, because I see this side of the wrap as "the front". You may see it the other way. Just be consistent!

Wrapping Briolettes ... or ... Oh, the Heartbreak

I was going to do a tutorial on how to wrap briolettes.  But first, I decided to see what was already out there on the web on that very subject.  I watched over 10 YouTube videos on the subject and learned a lot.  Not about how to wrap a briolette, but that everyone has their preferred method.

Seems like all the approaches have slight variations, but the end results look decidedly similar.  Interesting, I thought.  By the way, my step-by-step process was unlike any of the videos I watched.  As a matter of fact, I've decided that mine was by far the simplest approach.  I guess some people just like to make things more complicated than they need to be!

So, instead of doing a procedural post -- I mean, you can search YouTube just as well as I can -- I thought I would focus on the different looks that can be achieved with the same basic process.

The simple, no muss, no fuss wrap:

While this may seem a little boring, it does have its purpose in certain designs.  For example, the wrap is not bulky and can easily be covered with a large hole silver bead.  That's the primary use I have for this type of wrap.

The super-neat-how-did-she-do-that wrap:

I find this wrap to be difficult to accomplish successfully, especially on a steep-sided briolette as shown here.  The wire wants to slide upwards and over itself (jumping ahead to the next wrap here).  Practice helps, but each briolette will pose its own challenges.

The messy artful wrap:

For this style wrap, the wire is first wrapped downwards until the hole is covered and then upwards, back toward the loop.  This one poses some challenges as well, especially with steep sided briolettes.  The labradorite brios in this photo were fairly easy to wrap.

Now to the heartbreak part.  There are no words to console a bead artist when she has broken gorgeous briolettes.  To minimize this, never force too heavy a gauge of wire through the hole (I didn't, I swear).  Also, use dead soft wire as opposed to half hard.

Say a silent prayer for the above fluorite and apatite briolettes.  Amen.

Sanding and Polishing

There are many tools out there for us to use when finishing a piece jewelry containing metal.  Here's a look at two of my favorite polishing tools.

The large, green polishing papers are 400 grit.  I cut them into quarters, which is a much more manageable size for the small items I'm polishing.  After wrapping a briolette with oxidized wire, I use this polishing paper to remove the oxidation from the high spots.  Because it is fairly coarse, it will leave scratch marks.  I like the organic, rustic feel obtained this way.  For those of you looking for a less scratched surface, this paper comes in grits up to 8000!  The 400 grit paper is Rio Grande item number  337301 and it comes in packs of 10 sheets.

The smaller white polishing pads seen in the photo provide a very different result.  They clean the metal and remove tarnish.  Because these pads have no "grit", they do not leave a scratchy surface.  But they don't remove scratches either.  These pads are Rio Grande item number 337020 and it comes in packs of 50 pads.

Here's what they look like after being used for a few weeks.  I use both of these products on a regular basis.

There are lots of other polishing products out there, all resulting in different looks and finishes.  I've used #000 steel wool in the past, but found it very messy to use.  Some people like to use ScotchBrite pads, but I find their grit too coarse.  Try a bunch of different things and you're sure to find what works best for you.

Techniques & Tips :: Customized Pliers

Let's start with what this is NOT. This is not a tutorial about how to make a wrapped loop. This is a tip about how to make your wrapped loops just a little bit better.

Creating a wrapped loop (aka secure eye-wrap) is a basic skill that bead artists and jewelry artisans perform quite often. You probably have your favorite means of getting one of these things done – and you’ve done plenty, I’m sure.

At the very least, a wrapped loop requires 3 pairs of pliers: a chain nose for bending and straightening, a round nose for making the perfect loop, cutters for trimming. Here I will introduce you to the 4^th pair that I consider indispensable.

This is one of my original pair of chain nose pliers whose springs have long since broken off. I took the tip to the grinder (alright, Rick did it for me, but it was my idea) to make a super sharp point. You will see how handy this modification can be. Here's a close-up of the tips:

After making a wrapped loop and trimming the excess wire, even my best flush cutters often leave an itty bitty end of wire sticking out. When I say itty bitty, I mean really small. Many people will not even notice, but this kind of attention to detail can separate your work from that of others. These super pointy pliers are the perfect tool for pressing that little bit of wire inwards, in line with the main part of your wraps. There is an exaggerated amount of wire in this photo for demonstration purposes. (look just on top of the uppermost bead)

Even when doing a “messier” type of wire wrap, these pliers are the only ones that will successfully “tuck in” the ends of your wire, without disturbing your artful wrap. This is especially useful when working with smaller gauges of wire, such as 24 ga or 26 ga.

Jewelry Making Tip :: Front and Back

After stacking beads on a headpin for creating a pair of earrings, we most often make a wrapped loop in order to attach the drops to earwires. I make 2 types of wrapped loops: neat and messy. But that's a topic for another post. This post is about the neat type of wrapped loop. Chances are, you have a favorite method of creating said wrapped loop. Take a close look at the last pair of earrings you made. You will notice that they do not look the same when viewed from the front as they do when viewed from the back.

This first photo shows one drop facing one way and the other drop facing the other way. Can you see the difference in the wrap? This may seem like a minor point, but in a simple pair of earrings, if each one is not suspended from the earwire in the same direction, it can really stick out like a sore thumb.



I won't try to tell you which way is right and which way is wrong, I only suggest that you assemble both earrings the same way. I always hang my drops as seen below, because I see this side of the wrap as "the front". You may see it the other way. Just be consistent!

Finishing a Necklace with Bead Tips

Finishing a strung necklace can be done in several ways. Most basic stringing classes teach a method involving crimp beads and SoftFlex or Accuflex stringing material. Although I do like those 2 materials, I’ve never liked this method because it leaves some of the stringing material visible in the form of a loop, which is used to attach the necklace to its findings. I developed this alternative method many years ago. Although quite unconventional, I find it to be durable and it provides a more professional looking finish to handcrafted jewelry. It’s all about personal preference.

Using chain nose pliers, make a bend in your string material, leaving about a 1” tail. Insert this bend into a small crimp bead. Crimp, using 2-stage crimping pliers. This will leave the crimp bead round-ish.

String a bead tip so that the crimp is nestled inside the clamshell and both ends of stringing material go through the hole. Close the bead tip gently, but securely with chain nose pliers.

String the first bead, embedding the tail end through it. Trim that tail end close. String the remainder of your beads, ending with another bead tip. Tie an overhand knot and using a heavy needle or an awl, work the knot into the bead tip as far as you can. Tie another overhand knot OVER the first one. This can be tricky and may take some practice. Use the needle – it will help direct the knot where you want it. Insert the tail end of the wire back through the hole in the bead tip and through the last bead strung.

Add a generous dab of glue to the knot. I use Hypo-Cement because it has a narrow applicator which is perfect for inserting into the bead tip. Close this bead tip as you did the other.

Your piece is now ready for the clasp set of your choice.

Finishing a Multi Strand Cord Necklace

I make lots and lots of multi-strand necklaces with nylon cord and glass beads. This is one of the products that I wholesale in large quantities, so it was in my best interest to develop a surefire method of finishing these necklaces.

There are several brands of strong nylon cord on the market. My favorite by far is C-Lon, which I purchase from Marion Jewels in Fiber. My local bead store carries it too, but Marion stocks the entire range of colors, which is astounding.

After you've strung your beads, align your cords and tie an overhand knot with all 3 (or however many you have) strands. Tighten this knot.


Tie a second overhand knot directly over the first one. Before tightening this knot, insert a 2 1/2" - 3" length of wire (I use 22 ga sterling silver) through it. Pull this knot tight, incorporating the wire.


Bend the wire around the double knot and make a wrapped loop.



Add a very generous amount of glue (Hypo Cement is my glue of choice) all over and around this knot. Be sure to get some glue on the wire as well. Don't worry about how this looks -- it will all be hidden from view. Trim the excess cord to about 3/8". Don't forget to clean the glue off your trimmers or your scissors!


Before the glue on the cord is completely dry, insert the wire into a cone end. I use 1/2" sterling silver cones. Be sure to get the entire knot and the loose cord ends into the cone. If necessary, push the loose ends in with a toothpick or wooden skewer, or whatever is handy!


Make a wrapped loop at the very top of the cone. Repeat this process on the other end of the necklace.

Add your clasp of choice and your necklace is ready to be worn.

Details, Details

When working with beads or making any type of jewelry, details are so important. Here's one of the little details of creating beaded drops that I find critical.


After stacking beads on a headpin for creating a pair of earrings, we most often make a wrapped loop in order to attach the drops to earwires. I make 2 types of wrapped loops: neat and messy. But that's a topic for another post. This post is about the neat type of wrapped loop. Chances are, you have a favorite method of creating said wrapped loop. Take a close look at the last pair of earrings you made. You will notice that they do not look the same when viewed from the front as they do when viewed from the back.

This first photo shows one drop facing one way and the other drop facing the other way. Can you see the difference in the wrap? This may seem like a minor point, but in a simple pair of earrings, if each one is not suspended from the earwire in the same direction, it can really stick out like a sore thumb.



I won't try to tell you which way is right and which way is wrong, I only suggest that you assemble both earrings the same way. I always hang my drops as seen below, because I see this side of the wrap as "the front". You may see it the other way. Just be consistent!